Hoh is hot, the best river in the state now

Washington fishing map feature
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  • View Map FORKS, Wash — Imagine, if you can, hotwiring your cerebral cortex's ability to process reality and logic while a steelhead measuring 40 inches in length is ripping 12-pound-test mainline out of an Ambassadeur reel like it were a Duncan yo-yo.

     

     

    After you've returned from that little trip into Fishing Fantasia, try to bend your mind around a half-hour of run-and-gun with a steelhead running 44 inches in length and several ungodly inches in girth.

    The land of the giants

    Amber Keehn took this 9-pound fish drifting an egg cluster and Spin-N-Glo in late December.

    In an area that reads like a roll call of America's Best Steelhead Rivers, the Hoh could very well stake a claim as the best place in the Pacific Northwest to fish for 20-pound winter-runs over the next two months.

    The Hoh stands out just enough over the Quillayute, Sol Duc, Calawah and Queets to garner almost all of his angling attention as we approach February, and the most prolific "big fish time zone" of the year.

    It's not totally uncommon to go up there for four or five days straight and land eight or nine fish in the 20-pound class."

    Spilling out of the Olympic Mountains and Olympic National Park south of Forks and eventually emptying into the Pacific Ocean midway between LaPush and Queets, the Hoh is the moodiest of the Olympic Peninsula's big steelhead rivers.

    It's the first to go sideways during winter rains, and could very well spend the majority of the next two months out of shape and unfishable. But it's that same gusher flow quality that makes the Hoh such a big-fish vacuum.

    She blows her to smithereens — there's a lot of water coming through there, and there are always fish coming in."

     
     
    At a glance
    Where: Miramonte Reservoir is located in San Miguel County about 17 miles south of Norwood. From Norwood, travel 1.5 miles east on SH 145, then go 14 miles south on FS 610 (the Dolores/Norwood Road), then 2.5 miles on Road L40 to the property.

    What: Hoh River steelhead.

    When: Hatchery runs will be over by the end of January, when the first significant runs of big wild fish start to hit the river. Prime time for big fish on the Hoh is February and March. The river closes April 15.

    Where: The upper river — from Oxbow Campground to the boundary of the Olympic National Park — is almost always more fishable during this time frame than the lower river. Drift from the park boundary to Morgan's Crossing, or from Morgan's to Oxbow.

    Why: Selective gear regulations and catch-and-release of wild fish makes the upper Hoh one of the best trophy steelhead opportunities in the Pacific Northwest. This river is capable of kicking out a 30-pounder.

    Access issues: A December blowout changed the composition of the river, especially on the lower river, where it wiped the Cottonwood Campground access completely out.

    Lodging: Several hotels and bed and breakfasts are available in and around Forks. Places to try include the Mill Creek Inn (360-374-5873); Hoh River Resort (360-374-5566); Westward Hoh Resort (360-374-6657)

    Information: Bob Gooding, Olympic Sporting Goods (360-374-6330)

    Changing, rearranging

    After consecutive mild winters on the Peninsula, December came in like a rabid lion — double-digit rainfalls pushed every single stream in the area out of shape, and, in the case of the Hoh, changed the face of several components of its fishery.

    The major points of change include a couple of lower river access areas that are now different, or completely unusable. They are:

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  • Oxbow Campground: The bottom end of the drift from Morgan's Crossing, the put-in/takeout is heavily silted in, but still usable with a 4-wheel drive.

     

  • Cottonwood Campground: Gone. Bye bye. December's blowout wiped this northbank campground and accompanying fishing access right out of the picture.

    The drifts

    Every inch of the Hoh — from the plunking water at Nolan's Bar near the bottom, to the walk-in fly fishing access inside the National Park boundaries at the top — offers big fish potential, but the lower half (below Oxbow) is often out of shape and unfishable during the winter.

    The water clear first up high. The lower end is the place to be when the hatchery runs are going, and then again really late in the season. The upper river will get hot, and then gradually taper off after March or so.

    April is a fine time to steelhead on the Hoh, and on the Peninsula in general.

     

  • Mount Tom Creek to National Park Boundary: You can't fish from a boat inside the boundaries of the National Park, but if you're a flyrodder, the upper reaches of the Hoh are designed for you.

    You can fish all the way up into the park, up to Mount Tom Creek, and find some phenomenal fly fishing, There's some tremendous fly water up there, all walk in.

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  • Park Boundary to Morgan's Crossing: The put-in at the park is still usable after the December deluge, but the composition of the upper Hoh will seem like the face of the moon for everybody but the legion of Forks-based guides who make their living on this river.

    It's very flat — nothing but long gravel bars up there — but the river goes all over the place

    It's easy to boat, but you have to really be aware of sweepers and blockages in the river, which will happen after big waters. You'll have all these 7-, 8-foot spruce trees in the water.

    Best thing to do is get on the phone with Bob Gooding at Olympic Sporting Goods (360-374-6330) to get the word on some of those conditions."

  • Morgan's to Oxbow: This is 8 to9 miles of the best steelhead water in the Lower 48, encompassing tried-and-true producers like Willoughby Creek, an area long known as the Clay Bank, and the Canyon.

    Except for a rapid just above Oxbow that requires a little extra care, it's an easy float where you can spend the entire day pitching Spin-N-Glos, bouncing pink worms along the bottom, fishing rags, or pulling single, barbless-hook plugs (it's selective gear only from Oxbow up).

     

  • Oxbow to the mouth: The lower river — from Highway 101 down — provides three major takeouts: Allen's Bar, Nolan's Creek and G & L Mill. This section is stuffed with bank access, and can be incredibly productive when water conditions allow.

    Every road that goes toward river usually ends up there. There are several gravel bars that guys can camp on — the access to Nolan's Bar has changed down at the bottom, and the bottom end of Barlow Bar is closed now, but there are a good couple of miles of gravel bar between those two areas for guys to fish

    Self regulation by the Hoh tribe means that the Hoh isn't netted nearly as heavily as other Peninsula rivers. Through February, the schedule is usually Monday noon to Wednesday noon, switching to a Monday-to-Tuesday schedule in March.


     

     

     


    Material from Fishing & Hunting News
    published 22 times a year.
    Visit them at www.fishingandhuntingnews.com

     

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    Copyright © 2007 Last Modified 8-21-07

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